Old school – NEW world

Bridging the gap . . .

Tag: “boro”

“boro” Concept

It’s been a while since the “boro” concept project became a serious undertaking, and today marks the completion of the first haori style “boro” . . . as I posted somewhere, “boro” is Japanese for “rag” or as I interpret it: worn, frayed, faded, and patched; an assemblage of blue hued shapes and woven textures sewn together – there are hard-edged seams and unfinished edges that will unravel when washed . . .

BORO

I will use “boro” when referring to all the haori style coats I will produce . . .

Here is a series of photographs of my newly born “boro” concept . . .

. . . showing some of the lining . . .

BORO

BORO

BORO

BORO

The boro hanging from a tree limb, draped over a tree stump or lying on a pile of twigs is in keeping with the original treatment of boro . . . it is lying near where someone is working, waiting to be picked up and worn when returning home . . .

BORO

BORO

BORO

BORO

BORO

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. . . so desu, is wabi sabi, n’est pas?

BORO

Update 2010/10/07 (Photos w/human inside) Model is 5’4″ tall . . .

Front . . .

BORO

. . . back.

BORO

And “arigatogozaimashita” to Robert Motherwell for his “Spanish Elegy” series . . .

“boro” . . . MAN (update)

Today was a day of significance . . . heavily influenced by the Great Martha Stewart . . . Whaaa . . . that’s right, Martha Stewart.

BORO

I was doing a but of organizing yesterday and found an old copy of “Martha Stewart Living” that I had saved for the how-to article on “organizing” . . . and noticed a craft-y weaving project, and I thought “. . . yeh, might be able to do a little something with the idea . . .” I was right, and the “boro” concept acquired a new design element . . . the whole thing really came together after a visit to “Ichiroya” – antique kimono and fabrics in Japan . . .

I’m updating this post with photos illustrating the “Martha Stewart” influence: first the article . . .

BORO

. . . nice, neat squares, etc. Martha colors . . .and me . . .

BORO

A panel for the back of a haori/juban concept piece . . . and two more panels for the front.

Here’s one . . .

BORO

. . . and here is what the work table looks like at full chat..

BORO

I also dug into my past, and using the Japanese haori/juban design, cut a coat out of an old quilt made by my paternal grandmother . . . not too much work was required – I folded the quilt in half, measured for the center and cut up the middle to the fold, then pinned the cut edges. Next I measured 15 inches horizontally from the center cut and drew a line from the bottom to a point 16 inches from the top fold. The quilt was cut through both layers, starting at the bottom edge, stopping at the 16-inch mark. Both edges of the cut were pinned . . . did this on both sides – the material will be sewn tomorrow and a denim collar and front seam binding will be added, I’ll post some photos when I get the stitching finished.

Quilt-y RTW concept . . . before stitchery . . . hanging –

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and after the sleeves have been cut.

BORO

As stated, seam binding will be added as well as a collar.

On another note . . . I was checking out Tavi’s blog and tuned in on the “witchy music” mix by tulletulle . . . some berry nice listening – Skip James, the Pixies – their other stuff sounds a little like “X” – L.A. punk scene, remember . . . Kate Bush . . . brewed up some Peets caffeine in my new 4 cup Mr. Coffee brew thing . . . holy shit . . . Yoko Oh No . . . squalling and squeaking . . . something called “Whole Lotta Yoko” Did you evah listen to “Two Virgins” ?? Yeh you get the idea . . . I still have a copy of the LP . . .

BORO

. . . bought it a head shop on Anaheim Street in Long Beach CA . . . a l-o-o-o-n-g time ago . . . never could understand why they had to show their flat asses . . . oh, you can get your Peets coffee by subscription, through the mail OR . . . if you’re not a S-N-O-B you can just buy it at Von’s or your local supah mahket chain outlet . . . sounds wort of like a new kind of toilet, no?

“ragtime” Sunday

Sunday and the “boro” man . . .

IM

Well . . . got some serious input relative to the “boro” concept today . . . not all concept pieces will be too complex or thought out.

IM

. . . this is the “boro” prototype piece.

And here are some photos of the long neglected OVD . . . she will be the icon for the “concept” project.

DOLL

The once plain denim cape or “blanket” is now a “boro” style garment . . .

DOLL

My sister is bringing one of her dolls for a fitting . . . needs a “boro” style haori . . .

DOLL

DOLL

DOLL

Doll

DOLL

Saturday and the “rag” man

Aunty P here . . .

BORO

I was sitting next to the “boro” man this a.m. – in the flesh – listening to him discuss the “boro” concept project that he’s currently working on . . . V-E-R-Y interesting . . . When I asked him about ordering one of his concept pieces, he said, “I don’t take orders cos the project is still in the formative stages, you know, like research and development . . .” So does Aunty P have to wait to get her “boro” concept “piece” like everyone else? . . . yep . . . like everyone else . . . WTF!? Well, November will be here shortly and THAT’S when he plans a “showing” of his work.

BORO

The “boro” man did tell me about the “walking” foot that he installed on his JUKI before I arrived (never heard it called THAT before) . . , turns out that a “walking foot” is a thing that allows for sewing several layers of fabric without getting wrinkles and bunched-up material in the seam as you sew. POO!! I was thinking 12 inches . . . well, you know what I mean . . .

BORO

I felt a bit like Alice at the freaking tea party . . . I know there was only the two of us in his workroom, but at times it was sort of like there were three or more people all talking in unison, and at times they were all on different pages . . . like Aaron Copeland’s piece with two marching bands, each playing a different piece, coming from opposite ends of the street and meeting in front of the listener . . . it was like OMfuckingG I have to pee . . .

He says he will soon have a “gallery” of some “concept sketches” up on his “ragworks” blog page – the “sketches” are actually panels with layered irregular “patches” of worn and faded denim that will become the backs, sleeves and fronts of coats – he also has “boro” concept “throws” that will be available soon.

I did snag two photos of stuff on the floor . . .

BORO

. . . more stuff . . .

BORO

Well . . . Aunty P could have been sitting there naked and I don’t think he would have noticed, as he kept on incessantly about “ranru”, “noragi” and “yogi” and stuff I had never heard of . . . hmmm . . . maybe some denim shorts next visit, frayed and faded OR maybe a pair of denim pants like the ones I saw on the floor of the shop – missing the legs AND crotch . . .

BORO

Who is “John Locke” anyway? Oh, and some other guy . . . “Kant” . . . all I know is, if you know what these two had to do with sewing, let me in on the secret.

Time for something I understand . . . like a snack and cool sheets and some sleep . . . O X O X . . . (or something like that.) Aunty P . . . over-and-out . . .

The New World

Ragtime with tha trashman . . . or maybe it should be “boro” man (rag man) . . .
yeh . . . well, I decided to start putting bit and pieces of some of my denim “rag” inventory to-geddah . . . “testifying” for my worn, reused “vintage” garment concept . . . the use of old “jeans” for “new” coats/jackets actually actually started about two years ago . . . I had some BIG plans for fabricating distressed denim clothing . . . stuff completely unlike the commercial stuff from Wrangler et al, and other runway designer offerings . . .

BORO

How it begins . . .

. . . I’ve been rummaging through the Internet doing some research . . . Japanese “boro“, “ranru“, and “noragi” fabric and clothing . . . some “sashiko” stitchery . . . AND everyone is reading each others blogs and re-posting what’s already been “writ“(ten) . . . redundant crap.

While my work is not “true” Japanese “boro” (I don’t use vintage Japanese fabric for one . . .) it is “boro” style . . . it IS pieced and layered rag patchwork using old used denim fabric with wear holes, use-faded color, and unfinished edges.

BORO

I was trained to look at a 2D composition sideways, upside down, etc., to check the overall “balance” of the shapes, lines, and colors . . . and that’s how I approach the layout of each of my rag works . . . each panel is constructed on the floor . . . sort of like Jackson Pollock laying canvas on his studio floor to get the “background” drips and spatters in place, and then climbing up on the ladder to get a different perspective before the detail elements of the painting are added . . . AND . . . I have a “boro“/”ranru“/’noragi“/”sashiko” image catalog that I browse through . . . periodically.

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. . . on the workroom floor.

Here’s some pics to illustrate my adaptation and/or use of the “boro” style . . .
The panels will be used either as the back of a haori-style jacket/coat or as a multi-use “throw” (lap-blanket, rug, etc.) . . .

BORO

The photo above is of a patchwork piece that will have additional pieces of fabric sewn around the perimeter to increase the width of the panel to make it “usable” as the back of a jacket . . .

BORO

Finished panel

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Another finished panel . . .

And I should explain . . . me, myself, and I . . . and the “Japanese connection” beyond just being “an old Japanese come back as a Paiute Indian.”

BORO

I am (Auf deutsch) Owens Talpaiute-inder, that is: an Owens Valley Paiute Indian, a member of the Big Pine Band of the Owens Valley Paiute; and, as such, I have interacted with Korean and Japanese artists, and their respective community members, as a person with a distinct cultural identity . . . not as a “Native American” or even as an “American Indian”, but as a Paiute Indian and a photographer.

BORO

5 p.m.

An anthropologist once said that I was the first “truly” bi-cultural person that he had met. What he meant was that I had maintained a strong connection with my ethnic beliefs and material cultural practices, and was also well versed in the cultural practices of the dominant Euro-American society, and moved “seamlessly” between the two.

BORO

. . . lava light . . .

To be continued . . .

“boro” . . .

. . . started this post yesterday (Friday) . . .

The denim “haori” prototype has encountered a bit of a set-back . . . I overlooked the fact that the Japanese body is not as large as mine . . . WTF . . . How did I do that??

Here’s what happened: I was using the “old” standard width of silk fabric (13 1/2 inches) when making the panels for the garment . . . well I needed to make the panels a minimum of 15 inches or even 17 inches wide to get the kind of loose “drape” that I was trying to create. I did have an old XXL shirt that I was going to use as a rough guide, but I just powered on without it, and . . . So I will be ripping seams and making some adjustments . . .

COAT

i snagged the sketch from this Japanese site . . . it’s a good illustration to better understand the concept of my “boro” coat. This coat/jacket will definitely be for Fall/Winter or the cooler climes . . . it’s HEAVY . . . and thick . . . Lots of layers and shapes.

In Japan, mended and patched textiles are referred to as “boro”, or rags.

COAT

Got to implement the “Plan – Do – Check – Act” cycle . . . W. Edwards Deming.

Saturday (1100) . . . b-coat is in the process of reconstruction . . . Bjork is supplying the necessary motivational musik . . .

Well, the additional pieces of denim (4” wide) have been sewn in place and the “coat” should be in its final stages of completion tomorrow (Sunday) . . .

Today the humidity is most disturbing . . . working with the A/C on is O.K. but once you step out the door . . .

HUP, Holland HUP !!