Old school – NEW world

Bridging the gap . . .

Tag: haori

“boro” Concept

It’s been a while since the “boro” concept project became a serious undertaking, and today marks the completion of the first haori style “boro” . . . as I posted somewhere, “boro” is Japanese for “rag” or as I interpret it: worn, frayed, faded, and patched; an assemblage of blue hued shapes and woven textures sewn together – there are hard-edged seams and unfinished edges that will unravel when washed . . .

BORO

I will use “boro” when referring to all the haori style coats I will produce . . .

Here is a series of photographs of my newly born “boro” concept . . .

. . . showing some of the lining . . .

BORO

BORO

BORO

BORO

The boro hanging from a tree limb, draped over a tree stump or lying on a pile of twigs is in keeping with the original treatment of boro . . . it is lying near where someone is working, waiting to be picked up and worn when returning home . . .

BORO

BORO

BORO

BORO

BORO

BORO

. . . so desu, is wabi sabi, n’est pas?

BORO

Update 2010/10/07 (Photos w/human inside) Model is 5’4″ tall . . .

Front . . .

BORO

. . . back.

BORO

And “arigatogozaimashita” to Robert Motherwell for his “Spanish Elegy” series . . .

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“boro” . . . MAN (update)

Today was a day of significance . . . heavily influenced by the Great Martha Stewart . . . Whaaa . . . that’s right, Martha Stewart.

BORO

I was doing a but of organizing yesterday and found an old copy of “Martha Stewart Living” that I had saved for the how-to article on “organizing” . . . and noticed a craft-y weaving project, and I thought “. . . yeh, might be able to do a little something with the idea . . .” I was right, and the “boro” concept acquired a new design element . . . the whole thing really came together after a visit to “Ichiroya” – antique kimono and fabrics in Japan . . .

I’m updating this post with photos illustrating the “Martha Stewart” influence: first the article . . .

BORO

. . . nice, neat squares, etc. Martha colors . . .and me . . .

BORO

A panel for the back of a haori/juban concept piece . . . and two more panels for the front.

Here’s one . . .

BORO

. . . and here is what the work table looks like at full chat..

BORO

I also dug into my past, and using the Japanese haori/juban design, cut a coat out of an old quilt made by my paternal grandmother . . . not too much work was required – I folded the quilt in half, measured for the center and cut up the middle to the fold, then pinned the cut edges. Next I measured 15 inches horizontally from the center cut and drew a line from the bottom to a point 16 inches from the top fold. The quilt was cut through both layers, starting at the bottom edge, stopping at the 16-inch mark. Both edges of the cut were pinned . . . did this on both sides – the material will be sewn tomorrow and a denim collar and front seam binding will be added, I’ll post some photos when I get the stitching finished.

Quilt-y RTW concept . . . before stitchery . . . hanging –

BORO

and after the sleeves have been cut.

BORO

As stated, seam binding will be added as well as a collar.

On another note . . . I was checking out Tavi’s blog and tuned in on the “witchy music” mix by tulletulle . . . some berry nice listening – Skip James, the Pixies – their other stuff sounds a little like “X” – L.A. punk scene, remember . . . Kate Bush . . . brewed up some Peets caffeine in my new 4 cup Mr. Coffee brew thing . . . holy shit . . . Yoko Oh No . . . squalling and squeaking . . . something called “Whole Lotta Yoko” Did you evah listen to “Two Virgins” ?? Yeh you get the idea . . . I still have a copy of the LP . . .

BORO

. . . bought it a head shop on Anaheim Street in Long Beach CA . . . a l-o-o-o-n-g time ago . . . never could understand why they had to show their flat asses . . . oh, you can get your Peets coffee by subscription, through the mail OR . . . if you’re not a S-N-O-B you can just buy it at Von’s or your local supah mahket chain outlet . . . sounds wort of like a new kind of toilet, no?

“boro” . . .

. . . started this post yesterday (Friday) . . .

The denim “haori” prototype has encountered a bit of a set-back . . . I overlooked the fact that the Japanese body is not as large as mine . . . WTF . . . How did I do that??

Here’s what happened: I was using the “old” standard width of silk fabric (13 1/2 inches) when making the panels for the garment . . . well I needed to make the panels a minimum of 15 inches or even 17 inches wide to get the kind of loose “drape” that I was trying to create. I did have an old XXL shirt that I was going to use as a rough guide, but I just powered on without it, and . . . So I will be ripping seams and making some adjustments . . .

COAT

i snagged the sketch from this Japanese site . . . it’s a good illustration to better understand the concept of my “boro” coat. This coat/jacket will definitely be for Fall/Winter or the cooler climes . . . it’s HEAVY . . . and thick . . . Lots of layers and shapes.

In Japan, mended and patched textiles are referred to as “boro”, or rags.

COAT

Got to implement the “Plan – Do – Check – Act” cycle . . . W. Edwards Deming.

Saturday (1100) . . . b-coat is in the process of reconstruction . . . Bjork is supplying the necessary motivational musik . . .

Well, the additional pieces of denim (4” wide) have been sewn in place and the “coat” should be in its final stages of completion tomorrow (Sunday) . . .

Today the humidity is most disturbing . . . working with the A/C on is O.K. but once you step out the door . . .

HUP, Holland HUP !!

Tuesday . . .

Tuesday . . . right?
HUP !! . . . the Netherlands is going to the World Cup Finals on Sunday . . . HUP !!

SHOP

INVENTORY TIME . . . yeh . . . I did a bit of research on denim in the “fashion” world last evening . . . not a lot of creativity, mostly skinny stuff, short skirts and “safe” jackets, etc. . . . nothing that got me too excited . . . just the usual faded, worn or “distressed” everyday crap.

SHOP

Saw some interesting use of lasers to “age” and add designs to denim. . . . uh huh . . . uhm . . . yeh . . .
. . . no lasers here, just a metal straight edge and a sharp rotary cutter . . .

SHOP

Rammstein sonne . . . the best musik for drudgery work . . . lots of ideas in tha mix . . .

SHOP

(used without anyone’s permission)

Well . . . uh . . . there’s a lot of fabric that needs to be pressed flat . . . stitched panels that can be made into lap blankets . . . pieces for “haori” jacket sleeves . . . finished panels for “h”-jacket backs AND so many denim pieces that I will probably spend a month pinning pieces together and stitching all of them into larger panels . . . uh . . .

SHOP

. . . after two hours got stuff pretty much sorted . . . found more intact pants and had a conference with my daughter about what to do with some of the patchwork pieces . . .

SHOP

SHOP

Before closing “shop” for the day, I did lay-out the pieces for the front of a “haori” style jacket , , , the back panel is already finished . . . the sleeves will be finished tomorrow.

Two panels for the FRONT not the “sleeves” as I posted earlier . . . will add a bit more fabric for more length . . .
Panel #1 . . .

SHOP

And panel #2 . . .

SHOP

A little of Robert Motherwell in the composition, neh? . . . the “Spanish Elegy” series . . .

Sent from my iPod . . . uh hunh . . . photos being inserted . . .

SHOP

. . . I’m taking Thursday OFF . . .